Saturday, 5 July 2014

Designing on a budget

Designing can be an expensive business. There comes a time when you realise that there are defiantly certain materials which give better results during the design process, whether its a certain kind of papers and inks, or the kinds of fabrics and thread that is preferable. When it came to making clothes, I used to try and get the cheapest materials possible. This ended, rather obviously, in low quality things, from paintings and drawings to garments. Now, I seem to have found a good middle ground, choosing cheap where it doesn't matter, and investing on the important parts, or where I can be thrifty. Now, I do not claim to be any kind of expert at all in design, however, being a design student on a budget, living on toast after spending £30+ on sketchbooks alone, you learn a few things on saving pennies.

Designing
In the design process, I only go for the basics, a pad of paper, and a pencil. I don't tend to colour in my designs because I'll draw it up first, then choose my fabric later. I like using tracing paper, and putting an outline of a woman's body beneath, as its quick and easy to get the proportions right, and see where it sits on the body. My favourite kind kind of pencil is the mechanical kind, less sharpening and better precision. These are cheap materials anyway, especially from Amazon or EBay. The pencils will cost around £1-£2 for a pack, and I always get the kids brand of tracing paper, the nice kind is quick unnecessary unless I'm designing for portfolio pieces, in which case a nice pad of tracing paper can cost between £6-£20, but the kids tracing paper is around £1.50 per pad.

Pattern cutting
Pattern cutting does require more equipment, however, once you invest in a couple of tools, its plain, inexpensive sailing. The tools to invest in are a pattern wheel (which I actually only learnt the use of a couple of months ago, I thought it was just a weird spiked wheel), and a pattern square. Neither will break the bank, obviously, but I find them very useful tools, so its nice to have good quality ones. For drawing out, I will literally use anything to hand, a fine felt tip, pencil, Biro, whatever, as long as the line is thin, and doesn't smudge. Any old paper scissors will do too. Longer scissors are nicer to cut with, as they make a smoother line, but anything will do. Pattern paper, especially the kind with the crosses and dots, is quite expensive, and, though its lovely to work with when the opportunity arises, its not something I buy. Instead, wrapping paper works well. My pattern box looks very festive and merry right now! Lighter colours of cheaper, thinner paper means you can see through it for matching lines, so, while it might not make the most long lasting of patterns (I can't see myself being able to still use these in 20 years or so), its perfect for practice.
Making a garment
Firstly, a sewing machine. I have used an old straight stitch singer machine from around 12 years old until my 17th birthday, when I decided it was time for an upgrade. My parents bought me one of the budget Singer sewing machines, with around 12 different stitches. It does the job, but I've been craving an old model of Singer recently. I like using metal machines more, they feel much more sturdy, and since I only use lockstitch and zig zag stitch, I am searching for a Singer sewing machine from around the 1960s, just before they started to make them from plastic. These can come quite cheaply, I am forever seeing second hand sewing machines in the classifieds in the paper, but my hunt continues. They aren't too expensive either, so I will always go for second hand in the future, especially since my current machine is so tempremental, especially on zig zag stitch. Secondly, fabric. This is my major downfall. Like many a seamstress, I have a fabric hoard so big I could make a patchwork tent the size of a manor house. If I see a piece of fabric I like, I have to buy it, especially if its in a vintage shop. I do try and be a little clever with collecting it though. A big help for me is, as previously mentioned, my old job. I have so much fabric from them, I currently own three large boxes of fabric, and I'm trying to resist buying more. Trims and buttons are just collected as I go. If I see a piece of lace, or some vintage buttons I like, often they are so cheap I have the change in my pocket. My collection is quite vast now! If I am looking for something specific though, like bra strapping, eBay is the best for it. I recently got 5 metres of 6mm black stepping for £3, plenty to experiment with.

Now, back to sewing. I have a babydoll dress sitting upon the sewing pile, but cannot sew until everybody in my house is awake. The problems of being an early bird.

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